Lever-Action Rifles
Loading
The ammunition is held in a long tubular magazine beneath the barrel. Most lever-actions offer two ways to fill it.
- From the muzzle end.
Many models have a release tab or threaded cap at the muzzle. Unscrew or press it to free the long compression-spring rod. Withdraw the rod, then slip in the blanks one at a time, primer end first. Lever-actions are generous: most can hold at least a dozen blanks, and some far more. Insert the spring rod again, lock it in place, and the rifle is ready. - Through the side loading gate.
Some models are loaded through a spring-loaded metal door on the right side of the frame. Press a blank head-first through the gate; each round pushes the previous one deeper into the tube. Save one blank as a “tool” to nudge the final round in, because the gate can snap painfully against bare fingers.
Operating
Work the lever calmly—ignore what you’ve seen in films. A smooth down-and-up motion is all that’s required.
Lowering the lever ejects the spent round, opens the chamber, draws back the hammer, and presents the next round on the elevator. Raising the lever lifts that round into the chamber.
When aiming, keep the left elbow down and the right arm parallel to the floor with the elbow angled rightward. Squeeze the trigger, then work the action again, noting where the spent brass flies. Wait for your cue before firing again.
Troubleshooting
Lever-actions are delightful but temperamental. Common problems include:
Stovepiping.
A round tilts sideways during the upswing and jams. Occasionally lowering the lever will dislodge it, but usually the rifle must be taken offstage and cleared manually.
Failure to eject the prior round.
A blank may expand too much when fired and remain stuck in the chamber. If unnoticed, the next round is forced against it, worsening the jam. Remove the rifle from stage and extract the spent casing with a tool.
Spent casing drops into the elevator.
Instead of flying clear, the casing bounces and falls back into the elevator, locking the lever open. Forcing the lever can crush the brass and damage the mechanism. Turn the rifle upside down and try once; otherwise, it may require disassembly by a gunsmith.
Notes
Lever-actions were not designed for shoulder straps. The mid-section of the frame is structurally weak, even on real rifles, so adding a sling invites permanent damage. Historically, they were carried by hand or stowed in saddle holsters.
Bolt-Action Rifles
Loading
The magazine sits immediately in front of the trigger. On some rifles (especially modern or sporting types) it drops out like a pistol “clip” (magazine); on others—such as WWI-era Mausers—the magazine is fixed.
If the magazine is removable:
Press the release, drop the clip, load the blanks by staggering them naturally as they stack, then reinsert the clip. The rifle is loaded but not yet chambered.
If the magazine is fixed:
Pull the bolt up and back to expose the magazine well. Press the blanks straight down, usually five or six rounds. Closing the bolt will normally chamber the first round immediately.
If you wish to close the bolt without chambering a round, depress the top blank with a finger as you slide the bolt forward until it clears the primer, then continue closing it.
Operating
Lift and pull the bolt back to eject the spent round; push it forward and down to chamber the next. The bolt also cocks the firing pin automatically.
Bolt-actions have safeties, though designs vary. On many models, a rear toggle pointing left means “fire,” up means “bolt moves but trigger safe,” and right means “locked.” Other rifles reverse this scheme—so test it only while unloaded.
Once the bolt has chambered a round, there is no hammer to ease down. To make the rifle safe, remove the magazine (if possible) and fully cycle the bolt until empty. Inspect the chamber and magazine well directly.
Troubleshooting
Tip jamming.
A blank may ride off-track when the bolt pushes it forward, especially since blanks are shorter than true rounds. Pull the bolt back and remove the stuck blank with a tool.
Failure to eject the prior round.
A spent casing may remain stuck in the chamber due to expansion. Stop operating the bolt; remove the casing offstage.
Bolt refuses to go forward.
Often the rifle is simply empty. When the last round is gone, the spring plate rises and blocks the bolt by design. Press the plate down with your left hand while pushing the bolt forward.
Semi-Automatic and Fully Automatic Rifles
Semi-autos are unreliable with theatrical blanks; automatics are worse. No U.S. manufacturer builds dedicated blank-firing assault weapons. Every stage-worthy automatic is a modified real weapon, legally converted and often finicky.
Always have a backup sound effect. Taped sound is better.
Loading
The blanks sit in a detachable magazine forward of the trigger guard. Drop the magazine using the release (either underneath or on the left side of the trigger group).
Load blanks from the top: press each one down against the internal plate, then slide it back until the taper holds it. As the spring compresses, loading becomes harder. Twelve blanks is typical; long “banana clips” hold more.
Reinsert the magazine fully until it locks.
Operating
A loaded magazine is not the same as a chambered round. You must “chamber up” by pulling the charging handle—on the top (Tommy Gun, Uzi) or the right side (M-16, Garand). Pull it firmly, then guide it home; do not let it snap back. The rifle is now cocked.
Firing
Semi-auto: one round per trigger pull.
Automatic: continuous fire until the trigger is released or the magazine empties. Most automatics also have a selector switch for semi-auto mode.
Actors must be advised to use short bursts.
An AK-47 empties a 20-round magazine in a second and a half. A Tommy Gun drains a 50-round drum in under four seconds. At nearly two dollars per blank, unrestricted firing devours the show budget.
Unloading
Remove the magazine first. A live round may remain in the chamber. Work the charging handle gently until the blank ejects.
Troubleshooting
Always remove the magazine before inspecting.
Stovepiping.
A round rises crookedly from the magazine, catching sideways in the chamber mouth. Working the action often worsens the jam. Take the rifle offstage and clear it manually.
Failure to eject.
A spent casing sticks in the chamber; the mechanism then tries to push a live blank into it. Stop operating the weapon and clear it offstage.
Failure to chamber the first round.
Often the magazine is not fully seated. Reinsert until it locks.
Shotguns
Shotguns fire pellets rather than bullets, and their styles vary widely. The two most common stage types are break-open and pump-action.
Break-Open Shotguns
These single- or double-barrel guns hinge at the breech. A top or side lever unlocks the barrel, which swings downward, exposing the chambers. Insert the shells manually.
Use both hands when closing the gun; the stock near the breech is hollow and fragile. Swinging it shut one-handed will crack the weapon.
Break-opens must never have shoulder straps. The hinge cannot bear that strain. Historically, they were carried cradle-style: barrel in the crook of the left arm, right hand on the stock.
Break-opens were the classic bird-hunter’s firearm. One aims a rifle but sights a shotgun. Instead of lining up front and rear sights, the shooter uses the tiny bead at the muzzle and focuses just ahead of a moving target.
Pump-Action Shotguns
These modern guns use a sliding fore-end instead of a lever. Pulling the slide ejects the spent shell; pushing it chambers the next. They are fast, powerful, and prone to the same stovepipes and jams as lever-actions.
Actors often pump them violently to imitate movie behavior, but this damages the mechanism. A steady, firm pump reads far better onstage.
Safety Note
Most stage shotguns are not blocked-barrel weapons. Debris can exit the muzzle, so treat them with great caution.